Have you ever wondered why the sun turns your skin brown but your hair blonde? I mean shouldn’t we all be a bunch of brunettes or albinos? And what about people that only burn? Would they all become gingers? These are the questions that go thru my head while I’m waiting for a wave, and here in California it’s a long wait. The past 2 days have been small- so small it has been barely breaking on the outside. Every one on the beach says that this gives us Floridians an advantage but I beg to differ. When it’s this small in FL the outside still breaks because we have a shallower sandbar. Also the wave breaks completely different in FL . In CA the wave just rolls thru and you have to sit way deeper to even catch it, where in FL it crashes and tends to close out quickly. Also in July or actually in April we are no longer wearing wetsuits and the difference between skinning it and donning a wetsuit is a big one. So I’d say the only people with an advantage are the people that surf Huntington Beach everyday. However I guess you can argue that point since I won my first heat against Taylor Pitz (CA) and Alicia Gonsalves (HI). I surf round 2 (18 girls) today at 2 (or 5 FL time). You can check it out at http://www.nssalive.com/live/.
After my heat we decided to go to Sky High; probably the coolest place ever. Basically its a huge warehouse with trampolines EVERYWHERE.
After 10 minutes I was exhausted. Then we went to the Foam Pit that smelled like toe jam and sweat… gross.
It took me forever to get out because the foam squares are like quicksand. After that we went to go kill some kids in dodgeball. It got pretty intense.
Then we had the sweaty gross smelling car ride home. Not ideal.
Today I surf and if I make it thru this heat we have to change our flight home and we might miss the 4th of July ESA, so we’ll see what happens. I’m stoked to have made it this far, so hopefully I’ll surf well