This looks like a perfect longboard wave but there are about 2 inches of water at the bottom covering rock.
July 29, 2011
My introduction to the Indian ocean is small and cold.
I’m staying with friends of a friend, Tanja and Deon, who live across the street from Supertubes. Deon and the dogs get up before the sunrise. We have coffee and a surf check. He shows me where the gullies for entries and exits at Supers are. Knowing these places, he says, are no guarantees that you will get in or out safely. He’s seen the pros blow it many times and having lived there over 15 years, he warns that even he still occasionally gets his timing wrong.
The waves are tiny and breaking right on the rocks. I’m not in a rush to get out there. I go to yoga with Tanja and spend the afternoon walking the length of the bay, studying its angles and rock formations.
Portra 400 VC
Portra 400 VC
When Deon gets home from work he insists we get in the ocean. We take out some dusty longboards to Point. The longboard I borrow is a thruster and I must wear a leash. I can’t help but attempt a few nose rides and the thruster set up faithfully spins out every time. I absolutely love it. People expect to go to Jbay and surf overhead grinders and here I am goofing around in thigh high peelers. It’s almost blasphemy. After a week in South Africa, I’m thankful to be in the ocean and cruising down some fun little lines. I’m happy to get away from the hectic aspects of Cape Town and trade out the sounds of honking horns for a multitude of bird calls.
I spent two months there a few years back and the place is amazing. The starfish picture reminded me of the huge variety of shells on the beach. Looking for a good one after a surf at Supers or Magnatubes is a fun post-session activity.
Oh yeah Jonathan lucky you, 2 months! Amazing shells to be found when one is studying, surf checking, or just getting the body temperature back up.