Last year when I surfed Uluwatu it was solid everyday but El-Nino has really affected Indonesia, as well as the rest of the world. Usually this time of year Indo has these long lasting, drawn out swells. But from what I’ve seen and heard of, the swells this winter have been very bleak. Not to mention it has rained almost every morning, considering this is usually the dry season. My first session back at Ulu’s was the smallest I’ve ever seen it, waist to chest high but still really fun. I was glad to just get in the water after a few days of licking my wounds from G-land and just hanging out in paradise. My session was high lighted by surfing with a bunch of frothing Aussie and Indo groms, just ripping. Especially the kids that live out at Uluwatu, they are so lucky to have grown up on such a wave. I will have to say, I’ve never seen 10 to 14 year old kids surf that good. Its amazing the level that such young kids are on now a days. Air reverses? No problem, and a 10 year old going straight up and throwing the tail in a way I could have only dreamt of when I was that age. If I surfed half as good as those kids do when I was 12, then maybe my surfing would have actually gone somewhere. Surfing with all of them put the biggest smile on my face and made me feel like a grom again.
Ross,
“…then maybe my surfing would have actually gone somewhere.”… come on, look where your surfing has taken you! Seriously though, how many people get to make multiple trips to Indo solely to engage in riding waves in the grand scheme of human existence ? Not that many. And you are one shred ripper. Always have been.
Have fun and thanks for blogging,
lauren