Today was amazing! Hurricane Dorian passed yesterday after bringing huge 8-12ft bombs. The winds was blowing offshore at 40mph w/ gusts to 60mph. I didn’t shoot yesterday when people were surfing. The remaining bands of Dorian just wouldn’t let go til after dark, so I shot this morning. I rode my bike from my house to the pier at 6:30am. My house is five miles away and it usually takes about 30 minutes to get to the pier. I biked down and the waves were firing. Head high sets on the outside. It was blowing about 20mph offshore still so the conditions were clean. As 8:30am rolled around, the zoom lens just wasn’t giving me any good shots, so i went to the inside. As the sets rolled it, the waves grew. Some of the biggest barrels I have ever seen. Wide open chest high+ barrels. It was only breaking about waist deep too, which made my life easy. I shot for about an hour and a half in the extremely heavy shorebreak, then I rode my bike home. I am exhausted! Below are some of the shots I took! Enjoy:-)
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Empties
Tristan Clarke (@t_clarke656)
Jack Bamford (@jackbam)
Joel Luteran
The swell is now 2.7ft @ 9 sec. It was such a fun day! Pray for the Bahamas and for OBX. OBX will likley have a landfall pretty soon by Dorian. Winds on radar are 100mph+ in the eyewall. STAY SAFE!
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