Jbay Day Two

Saturday July 30th

Portra 400 VC

The waves have bumped up a bit. They look fishable so I go to Point with Tanja. We both start paddling too early and hit our fins on the way out. Rocks are foreign substances to this Floridian. The currents and undertows and leash entangling properties they possess throw me off a bit. The water isn’t terribly cold but I still wear booties because I have bouts of clumsiness and know first hand that foot injuries can ruin a good time.

Out of focus proof I was there. Those rocks are eager to chow on flesh, fins and fiberglass.

The waves at Point are noticeably smaller than Supers. I get a few fun but forgettable waves and spend a lot of time looking up the beach at larger waves not quite making it this far. Yet I don’t really want to deal with all that entails surfing up there. It has a reputation for being macho and difficult to surf and sending failed paddleouts drifting down the beach. It is in my head already.

Portra 400 VC

Alas, the power of suggestion is strong. I’m invited to surf Boneyard’s with Deon and Andre. We paddle out at the beach break, which instantly puts me in a zone that slightly resembles comfort. Still, confident is not a word I would use to describe my state. I’m going backside on a fairly wide fish. I’m not Occy. I’m not Derek Hynd. And I’m certainly no mutant hybrid of the two so what am I thinking? I fully expect to get punished. Yet…I will probably remember this session as my best in Jefferys. The waves are probably chest to head high (disclaimer: I am terrible at wave measurement) with a good push. The nose does not dig in on re entries, I get plenty of speed and turns in. The only real spill I take is when I try to take one of the lefts which opens up into a gaping tube. I catch a rail and eat humble pie. You can’t blame a goofy foot for trying. I am happy to surf on my backhand for the remainder of the session.

Unknown enjoying the evening glass off. Portra 400 VC