An old memory just came back to me of a time when I was maybe ten or twelve one hot summer day when I trying to master what must have ben my first real surfboard.
— I can’t really remember a lot about that particular day only that i’m sure i was having a blast and that the small south swell was wrapping around the jetty and making for some really fun rides.
What stands out in particular though was an old fella on an old long board that was also having a great time.When I say old I’m not sure how old when your ten or twelve everybody over twenty is old but this guy might have been any where from fifty to seventy.
When he caught a wave he never tried to get up he just rode the wave out on his knees but by the way he paddled and caught waves you could tell it wasn’t his first rodeo.
What was for sure was that he had the same smile on his face as this ten year old kid.
Who knows maybe he was a surfing pioneer of a by-gone era, all I know is he still had the stoke.
Now that I’m in my sixties I’m sure that I am king of the kooks and I feel more than just a little pain after a session, but rest assured you will still see the smile of a ten year old old on my face even when the day comes that I can only manage to get up to my knees.
Keep surfing friends
-Hop
