Today, one week into my north shore stay, the surf finally came up. Well, at Log Cabins anyway. It’s hard to explain how strange this is, but most breaks were head high; while Logs, less than a mile from Pipe, Rockies, and Sunset, was somehow double overhead and tubing.
Gabe and I paddled out mid morning into quite a crowd, only to watch most everyone go in. We were laughing at our good fortune. Well, at least I was until I paddled into my third wave of the day, got smashed, and came up to a broken board. I wasn’t laughing after that. Only having one board with me, I went to the beach and videoed instead, managing to capture a couple extremely fun looking tubes, as you’ll see in the video below.
The wind came up quick, and by mid day it was junk. That’s just hawaii for ya.
DANGIT! (This was Nate Curran’s board and I broke it on only my third wave)
