A surfer’s “secret spot(s)” is one of a few places they think they can get away from most members of the surfing public (think weekend warriors, kids, tourists, etc.) that are not in the know. To them the spot represents their or a close friend’s investment of time and effort to check, maybe on multiple occasions, specific locations and keep track of what conditions make the spot wake up and work. Sharing the location of someone’s secret spot can be very upsetting to them which is, given the above, understandable.
However, the practice of sharing photos and then labeling them secret location is very common in surfing related media. What is different with the Surf Station’s photo with the lighthouse in the background? The difference is that, in one action, the photo completelyreveals the location of the Secret Spot. Not to mention, social media automatically puts a time stamp on it giving anyone intrepid enough all the information needed to figure out with which conditions that spot works and when to check it.
Unlike other places on Earth, where there are infinite rock outcroppings and coves, living in NEFL binds us to very few swell and wind direction variables and even fewer places that could also be considered unknown by the surfing public. So, although a photo of a surfer paddling by a wrapping left could create stoke among those looking for a similar wave, zooming out too much gives away the cow and the milk together.
How can we build stoke for the hunt (milk) but not give away a relatively unknown spot (cow)? Why not zoom in and label it “secret spot”? This will encourage motivated surfers to hunt without unnecessarily fast forwarding to the filling up of the few secret spots a surfer can have reserved in their mind where everything might come together… which is such a rewarding experience that we all should chase it.
Best,
Brandon E.
