Sometimes there’s grace in chaos. That’s how the end of week marathon session began. As the wind shifted hard offshore and the current drifted steadily north, steep drops gave way to smaller inside sections with occasional shore pound. A few drift sessions paid off for the frothiest. Eventually as the wind beat it down Thursday night, morning gave way to a much smaller but cleaner wave. For early risers like Frank O’Rourke, seeking out the right spot offered some workable leftovers for the taking.
All photographs below courtesy of The Surf Station – © Mark Townsend @hangthetoes. See yourself in an image below? Contact us at support@surf-station.com or 904-471-9463 to get a digital copy or print for yourself!