This last swell had 3 to 4 days of good to epic surf, each one different from the last. It started off Friday with high tide semi-clean heavy barreling rights and lefts with winds turning more offshore through the day. Saturday had hard offshore NW/ WNW winds with a way more northeast angled swell that brought tons of perfect head high to 1 to 2 ft overhead left barrels running down the beach. Sunday was similar to the day before with big lefts but the winds were more northerly up here as south FL started getting some of the juice we’ve been seeing up here. Early Monday saw the next clean up with perfect 2 to 3 ft+ overhead glassy walls breaking outside for low tide followed by another session of draining rights and lefts around noon for hi tide. Tuesday was another cracker with solid waves and swell period getting longer. Local knowledge helped us find the right place and score once again. This morning still had waves but at this point the term “surfed out” was what most were feeling. Now that it’s all said and done, this swell will go down in the books as the pre-Thanksgiving swell of 2019 that gave every surfer who was lucky enough to get out there something extra to be thankful for.
– Ivy Rose Scott
