We can all agree. It’s been an incredibly, long, hot, wave-deprived Summer. What better “back to school” send-off ( and back to work for the weekenders who’ve graduated) wave-fest could this weekends offering have been?
Where the only pertinent question was where to surf…… Not was it big enough to surf.
No, it wasn’t the adrenaline-filled storm surf many have longed for, but it was most certainly a satisfying, if not downright fun swell that you could play on for hours and hours on end,
with no thought for food, water, or sunscreen. Seems the whole N.Coast of Florida offered something for everyone. Not every call was the right one. However; Some- definitely were!
I made a poor call Saturday, visiting a highly coveted peak, and almost lost my head over it. Literally. Thankfully, I walked away with just a dazed aura, not carried out on a stretcher. But that’s another story.
In light of that smashing epiphany tho, I decided to stay local and scoot over to my old break, which has been quite moody as of late, in hopes that the flat spell had set up something magical in its shifting sands.
Now THAT, was the right call!!
I was wanting to get some good, low water shots, but after a few minutes in the shorebreak, the better part of me decided the currents were too swift and the runouts too numerous to chance a take down.
Besides, I didn’t want a Saturday repeat on the crown of my head with the heavy lineup!!
Evenso, the surf crowd kept me on my toes, scanning for the next takeoff and subsequent barreling slot. So, so many tubes, and not all friendly as many will attest.
Still, some amazing rides went down and some gnarly wipeouts, too. I could hardly keep up with all the action on the beach, and most defintely would not have been in position to shoot them from the water.
That is a skillset I’ve yet to acquire. Evenso, I am happy I chose my beach camera kit and even happier I chose my secret old spot to visit.
You know… the one secret no one has kept to this day…. And that I shall now further compromise.
( My apologies to the local Indians. Sincerely)
So without further ado, and in no particular order, here are a few of my favorite images from the day.
And yes, I have many more. Smash the ‘Follow’ button on Instagram for more content @vrph0t0 . As swell voids dictate, I will post more from the Sunday session.
Until then; Cheers to you weekend warriors and camera fodder!! And to those who missed it, Apologies…According to Dean, your chance for redemption comes sometime this week.
